Bujol Restaurant: Authentic, Simple, and Delicious

On Manzioli Square, you can truly feel Izola's energy, which invites everyone to live in the moment, even if just for a little while. Relaxation, tranquillity, cod spread, calamari, and other delicacies of the sea, a glass of local wine, authenticity, simplicity, and tradition… All of these are provided by Bujol – a restaurant where locals and visitors meet daily. We talked to Alen Pušpan, who has owned the place for over fifteen years.

Where does the name Bujol come from? It sounds welcoming, but I'm sure most people don't know what it means. I also didn't know.

"Bujol" is an Istrian term for a bucket or jug. It is a specialized bucket used on boats and is essential for every boat. It is used to remove water from the vessel in cases where waves flood the deck or the boat leaks. In such situations, it is said that "the water is poured into the bujol." Just before opening the restaurant in 2008, there was a flood in the building, and these buckets were used to remove the water. That's when the idea for the restaurant's name, Bujol, was born. Since then, the restaurant has been known by this name.

How has Bujol changed since its beginning, from the time right after the flood until today? Does it follow its fil rouge, or does it experiment?

I can say we have kept the fil rouge since day one – we buy fresh fish from the Adriatic Sea and present it on a plate in a very simple way. We don’t experiment with side dishes and decorations, but we prepare plates as if we were cooking at home. We try to make everything as simple as it can be. Our menu only includes local seafood cuisine.

And how have you changed in all these years?

I've aged well. (laughs) It's true, write this down! (laughs) My wish fifteen years ago was to open my little culinary corner since the sea and food have always been dear to me. Back then, I was convinced that along with my vocation or occupation (I'm an architect), I could also, as a hobby, run a restaurant. I can confess that I was completely wrong about that! Today I can say that the catering industry is a challenging business: you need to put your heart and soul into it. Back then I probably underestimated that. Now I know that this business, which is dear to me, is also very tiring. At times, I'm exhausted and don't have enough energy.

Yes, working in the catering industry isn’t easy. What do you like the most about it, what keeps you going?

I’m a creative person and gastronomy is, in a way, creating. I always challenge myself with finding a balance between simplicity and good flavours. A restaurant is not only its kitchen, its dishes, and its service. A restaurant is a creative space, which I still enjoy very much.

What do you like to do in your free time when you’re not in Bujol?

Well, I don’t have much free time. I’m disappointed about that. I’m mostly disappointed in myself because I’ve neglected my hobbies, which I enjoyed doing in the past. I was active, I did sports and travelled. Skiing is the only activity I haven’t neglected: every year I try to spend at least 10 days in the mountains. I hope that in the future I will be able to do scuba diving again. That’s how, in the past, I used to connect to the sea, which is an important element in my life. I also try to spend time with my daughter, who’s in high school.

Will your daughter take over the restaurant someday? Do you wish for your story to be passed on to the next generation?

To be honest, I don't want to direct her in any way: children have to choose their vocation on their own and do what makes them happy. However, this does not mean she has zero contact with the restaurant. She helps when we need her. It teaches her work ethic and helps her understand the job and me. If she wants to take over someday, fine. Otherwise, she can choose her own path. I’m neither for nor against that. (laugh)

Bujol is known for its cod spread. In Izola, we like to say “We’re going to Bujol for some cod spread!”. Why do you think that is?

Cod spread is one of the products we’ve been making in our family business for quite some time. We’ve always prepared it the same way, following the same recipe. The initiator was my mother, who was head of production in the business. For fifteen years my mother, my sister, her husband, and I worked together. Along with cod spread, we were also making different types of salted fish, marinated sardines, octopus salad, etc. Well, the mother of my sister’s husband, Rozalija, a local from the village of Abitanti, entrusted us with her cod spread recipe. She taught us how to make cod spread and to this day, we stick to this old recipe. People simply love it!

Your dishes are made with seafood delicacies. Are these always local, and do you offer fresh fish every day?

We strive to offer fresh and local fish as much as possible. That was my wish from the very beginning: to work with local fishermen because fresh fish is the best fish. That's what the whole concept of the restaurant is based on. I promised myself to offer only locally-sourced food. Well, I had to break this promise because the needs and wishes of the guests indirectly create the offer, and to a certain degree, you have to consider them. That's why we also offer Patagonian squid and some farmed fish from Croatia. And that's all: no oceanic fish nor fish from other seas. Our plates only feature fish from the Adriatic Sea.

This year you’ll be preparing a recipe for the Days of Calamari. What’s your favourite way of preparing calamari?  

Grilled, with onions! That’s also the recipe we’ll prepare this time. It’s a very simple recipe, but to achieve its excellent taste, fresh calamari should be used. Bujol’s speciality regarding calamari is that we prepare them whole; we don’t cut them. By doing so, the calamari stay softer and tastier. Braised calamari (also called calamari in umido) are also interesting. A prerequisite for this dish is fresh calamari, since they’re not cleaned: right after being caught, the calamari are fried in hot oil in a padela (pan), afterwards some fresh wine and spices are added. The point of braised calamari is to serve them with a sauce so you can dip, say, bread or polenta in the dish.

And how do you like your calamari?

My favourite are calamaretti – small and lightly fried calamari. For calamari, the most important thing is to not over-fry them. If you make them “well done” by frying them more, that destroys their meat. By doing so, the calamari shrink and lose their essential flavour. When we use a fryer to make calamari, it’s important to take them out of the oil as soon as they float to the top. That’s when we should drain the excess oil by putting them on a napkin. It’s also very important for the fryer to be cleaned every day and to always use fresh oil.

We found out so much about calamari! Are they the restaurant’s top dish or is it another one?

As an appetizer, it’s surely cod spread, as we’ve already said before. But I would also say that another favourite is grilled sardines or fried anchovies. We’re talking about fresh fish only. We don’t even offer frozen fish …

Who are Bujol’s typical guests? Are they ordinary people or are there more demanding guests as well?

Our guests are a very varied and diverse bunch. Honestly, I expected our guests to be simpler, but over these 15 years, it has turned out that we are more and more often visited by demanding guests. I guess this is also because the outlook on cuisine has changed: the trend is to return back to basics and enjoy a simpler offer. Of course, quality is always an essential.

Locals love coming to Bujol, and even more, they like to recommend it to others. Why do you think that is?

I would say this has to do with the basics as well. Our cuisine originates from our area, from our ancestor’s recipes, it's part of our DNA. That’s probably why we accept it organically; because we all like authentic and simple dishes, we are accustomed to them … But it’s also about the attitude: firstly, you have to work for yourself, for the locals, because you exist and live thanks to them. Other visitors come after that. It’s also true that the trends are going in the direction of visitors wanting to experience the places where the locals hang out, so then it kind of goes hand in hand. The thought of “I’m going where the locals are” is becoming increasingly important in choosing a restaurant.

Locals love coming to Bujol, and even more, they like to recommend it to others. Why do you think that is?

I would say this has to do with the basics as well. Our cuisine originates from our area, from our ancestor’s recipes, it's part of our DNA. That’s probably why we accept it organically; because we all like authentic and simple dishes, we are accustomed to them … But it’s also about the attitude: firstly, you have to work for yourself, for the locals, because you exist and live thanks to them. Other visitors come after that. It’s also true that the trends are going in the direction of visitors wanting to experience the places where the locals hang out, so then it kind of goes hand in hand. The thought of “I’m going where the locals are” is becoming increasingly important in choosing a restaurant.

Are you still only accepting cash? How’s that working? Paying in cash is almost nonexistent abroad...

That’s correct; we’re currently still sticking to traditions and resisting digitalization – this is my preference and principle. However, needs and habits are changing, so we’ll have to adapt. The locals are quite accustomed to it, they either carry cash or don’t mind stopping at the nearest ATM. It’s a bit different with tourists … That’s why I’ll have to make some adjustments in this regard, set aside my stubbornness and embrace digital payment methods. (laugh)

Let’s talk a bit about our Izola. Which city or destination would you compare it to?

I’m deeply in love with Izola; there is no other place in the whole world that can compare to this town! That’s why, when I travel, I seek out similar destinations: ones that are homey, charming, tranquil, and simple … You can find similar places in the Croatian Istria, and perhaps even in Tuscany, but Izola remains the most beautiful of all. It just needs to come alive more! We should learn to fully utilize the old city center's potential.

How do you envision the future of your beloved Izola? More vibrant and...?

I believe that in Izola, we sometimes lack a broader perspective... We need to ask ourselves what we can do, what we should do, and then find a middle ground. But we should always bear in mind the importance of preserving our traditions. We don't fully appreciate the town's unique silhouette and the city center, which holds significant potential.

Why do you think it’s important to maintain traditions? Some cities or destinations have opted for complete makeovers …

I think there’s something fundamentally wrong if we don’t respect our parents and the generations that created the place in which we now live – our heritage. We should respect and consider it an essential value upon which to build. It's the foundation, the basis for moving forward. We learn from history, and that's how we lay the groundwork for the future. The fact that the old city center is a protected heritage site speaks for itself. I'm not sure if everyone fully grasps that. Of course, the city center is being restored and improved, but its core cannot be altered. New infrastructure can be constructed elsewhere; we have plenty of space. The city center simply needs more vibrant, authentic life.

Izola’s city centre partly already feels alive, especially on this beautiful square, where Bujol is located, and where you immediately feel positive vibrations. How do you collaborate with the square neighbours, for example, with the Manzioli wine bar?

Very well! This has to be one of the most fortunate stories we can boast of in Slovenian Istria – a story of collaboration with a capital 'C.' We practically work together, always seeking new collaboration opportunities and ways to upgrade our stories. This square truly has a wonderful microclimate.

And the very last question: What are the top 3 things you recommend to someone visiting Izola for the first time?

Izola’s best value is experiencing it as a whole, as a space that was once built and developed in the spirit of the past, with a special sense of its surroundings – the sea and the countryside. You have to experience Izola as a whole, and once you do, you’ll always wish to return. If, as a community, we can preserve that, then we’ll be able to maintain the value of Izola for the next generations.